Search

Onion Johnny goes to the Himalaya's

If anyone CAN, Onion Johnny CAN

Month

July 2016

A TALE OF 3 EATIES

Eating is very important to me. Whilst the rest of the west worry if they are eating too much, I worry if I’m eating too little.  I probaly need a minimum of 5000 calories a day (more in the mountains), and judging by my belt I’ve already lost 3 inches off my waist .  I’ve just travelled across the plains of Northern India that connect Nepal with the Indian Himalayas. I didn’t particularly enjoy the cycling and here’s a few words to describe those few days;

Hot at night, Even hotter in the day, Humid, Dusty, Dirty, Piles of rubbish, Poverty, Large lorries,  Polution, Potholes, Enormous potholes, Continuous houses between towns, Lots of people.

If you have a romantic image of India try visiting this part of India.                                                Now amongst all this I have to the find somewhere to eat.

July 8 th

I tried to find any where that vaguely resembled what we would call a restaurant near the guesthouse I was staying in, but with no success. So it was one of the, what I would describe as a transport cafe, by the side of the road. Dirt floor, broken dirty tables, sort of kitchen out the back with no running water and a wood fire for cooking. However in return the owner and his family would be lovely and always made me feel I was the most important customer they had ever had. Not a menu in site and only a smattering of English and so the food adventure began. It would always involve rice, but beyond that I didn’t always know what I was eating. The worse thing was the ‘CLOTH’. They always had a dirty cloth tucked in their trousers that they used to clean everything. Now I can accept cleaning the tables with it, but if a plate was not clean they would use it to clean the plate. Now you all seen those microscopic images of hairy germs, well thats how my eyesight went. I could look at those cloths and see gigantic hairy germs taunting me. I would spend the whole of the night wondering if I would ever leave the bathroom for the next few days, but surprisingly I was never ill once.

July 9 th

I had reached the Himalays and started my first big climb and exactly 4000 ft I saw the most extraordinary and unexpected sight I had seen the whole trip. A Mc Donalds. This I could not  miss, and I’m not even a fan of them. I ordered a Big Mac and sat down savouring the moment before my teeth sunk into the bread role. Yes, yes, yes it was totally devoid of any taste, bland, just like the chemists in Detroit, or where ever they live, had designed it to be. My taste buds had been overloaded for the last 2 months, and they were enjoying a brief holiday. The burger itself was of course not beef, but chicken, cows in India are found in the middle of the road, not the middle of a role. All in All a beautiful bland meal. And the best bit was the toilets were cleaned every 2 hours, and signed to say they had.

 

 

 

 

A Not photo of Mc Donalds. If you want a photo, go to your local Mc Donalds, it will be identical to the one in the Himalayas.

Later on July the 9 th

My afternoon snack was street food. My usual method of ordering was by pointing and then wait and see. He took two, sort of scone looking things, and flattened them with his thumb and then into hot oil to cook them on a paraffin burner. Once cooked he sprinkled them with crisp flakey pastry and now came the mystery bits. He offered me a choice of 3 large vats, one was a dark green, one was black, and the other white. I refused the white, recognising it as kurd, but the other two were generously ladled on and then a selection of spices were sprinkled on. It was delicious. Welcome back India, good bye Mc Donalds. The dark green and black liquids were I think sweet and sour working perfectly with the spices and scones. I’m writing to the Mc Donald chemist of Detroit and recommend they employ him, they will find him on the road to Shimla, between the mini bus and the big lorry.P1030334Street food blissP1030286The plains of IndiaP1030285P1030276

A short nervous blog

It’s Tuesday morning, the 12th of July and I’m in my hotel room in Shimla in the Himalayas.  The monkeys are going nuts this morning and are sat on my window cill putting their hands through the bars and looking very cute hoping I’ll give them food. This is a big day for me because I  leave to go to the Spiti Valley which means I have to climb to nearly 15000 ft. I’m split down the middle in terms of nerves and excitement.  To get through the valley will take me about 15 days or longer and I probably won’t have WiFi during that time. So wish me luck because I’m off.

Onion Johnny is in the Himalayas

The Himalayas started for me when I climbed up to Darjeeling at 7500ft. They immediately gained my respect and frightened the hell out of me. Darjeeling  sits on a mer foothill and it took me a very full day to climb it, and  I’m planning to climb to twice the height which is the second highest road in the world. Well that was 3 weeks ago,  and although I don’t keep any records, I sure I’ve done over 50000ft of climbs already (good training ).

So how do I climb a mountain? Well the short answer is very slowly and that is something that I’m the best there is. At the moment I’m climbing multiple climbs each day of between 1000 and 3000 ft and its vital that I don’t blast the first climb and have nothing left for the rest of the day . I’m carrying  20 kg or more of luggage so it’s straight into my lowest gear at the start of the climb. This gives me a typical speed of 3 mph, increasing to 4mph when it flattens out, and decresing to 2mph on the nasty bits. I’m sorry if this is a bit nerdy, but heres a bit of maths. If the hill is the best part of  10 miles then I’ll be climbing for 3 hours AND I LOVE IT. The scenery is big and magnificent but it is still the people that make it so incredible.

Let me give you 24 hrs in the life of onion Johnny in the mountains. I stayed in a hotel in the town of s and got chatting to the owner who was quite young at about mid 30 s. He invited me down to his office and there I got the shock of my life. He showed me a selection of photos of drug and achohol addicts within the town. He, without any help from local or national government,  was running a rehabilitation program for local addicts. His dream was to set up a home where they could be helped and vaguely hoped that I was some eccentric millionaire who could held him. I went to bed deeply moved by it all but frustrated that I probably couldn’t do anything to help him.P1030126

The Hotelier and his dream.

The day  started on my first climb of the day into the mountains. At about mid morning a motorbike pulled along side me and started chatting even though he was going the other way. He insisted I follow him and he took me for a breakfast of rice pudding, curry and tea. He gave me his mobile no and insisted I ring him if I had any problems at all. He tried to give me money which I just about managed to refuse. Can you imagine this ever happening in the western world.P1030135

Bring treated to a breakfast,  I’ve lost count of how many times this has happened to me.

The Himalayas had the nasty habit of serving  up a big climb at about 4.0 p.m. when I was at my most tired and in need of somewhere to sleep. My mapping wasn’t good enough to show where the top was so it was I started the climb hoping it would be a modest one. Two hours later, with no sight of the top I knew I was in for a late night. I came to a mountain village of about 20 houses all facing the road with each of its occupants sat on it doorstep, very remanisant of Britain in the 40 s and before. Now my speed of 3 mph was a lot slower than the speed of the doorstep telegraph,  and before I reached the middle the whole village had turned out to chear me on. These villages are very communal and even the people having their evening wash by the side of the road, in a state of partial undress were cheering me on. The children were all running along side me desperate to touch there hero. I was no longer Onion Johnny,  I was Bradly Wiggins  escaping from the pack and winning the Tour de France. I entered that village with tired legs, I left as a young 30 year old who really could win the TdF.P1030174

The village that helped me win the 2016 TdF.

Now for some photos.

The scenery is big and beautiful, and these are only the foothills.

Monkeys are never far away, and so are other things!

 

 

 

 

 

Land slides, big and small are never far away. I always ride on the opposite side of the road and keep listening all the time.

I love the mountain paddy fields, not a square inch is wasted

Nepalese children are how I would design children if I was God. Nepalese architecture

 

It’s July 3rd and I’m about 3 days from entering India, where I do the big boys mountains.

Blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑